In terms of city breaks, Karen Birney and Brian Byrne say �you could do Bratwurst�.
Beer, sausages and lederhosen. And in that order. As far as cultural symbolism goes, there can’t be much better things for a city to be known for. Munich isn’t happy to rest on cloudy beer, white sausages and ostentatious attire however, the capital of Bavaria has carved out a position as one of the most architecturally beautiful and culturally rich cities in Europe. An alternative to Berlin’s overwhelming scale and Hamburg’s often soulless technological metropolis, Munich has a traditional character all of its own.
What to eat, and where
Energy-sapping chilly winters (to put it mildly) ensure its cuisine is dominated by hearty fare. PASTRIES PASTRIES as far as the eye can see! Granted, hack clichďż˝s are the stock and trade of any travel writer, but the ‘Land of Chocolate’ genuinely does not disappoint. Treat yourself to one of the intimidatingly convoluted cakes, they come in varieties such as ‘syringe’ and ‘chair’ (honest to God some had chairs on them) and take a half an hour out of your day to bask in their calorific goodness. You won’t have to look to find a bakery; open shop fronts in the city ensure that your eyes will lead you to the countertop leaving a trail of saliva in your wake. All the baked goods are sourced locally and made fresh in store each morning so you don’t need to be too choosey about where you eat.
In terms of local food, you should try the Weisswurst. The Weisswurst is white breakfast sausages served with a grey/white mild mustard, you’ll get them before 12pm (and not a second after!). Bavarian specialities also include crispy grilled knuckle of pork with sauerkraut, and leberk�se, a meat dish made with pork and beef. It’s pretty much sinful not to give either of these a shot. And if you do suddenly come over all carnivorous, head to the Donisl restaurant at Marienplatz. It’s a bit of a tourist trap but it’s good fun and the food is solid with dishes at a reasonable price, the servers wear traditional lederhosen and there’s always a nice friendly atmosphere.
Another good place to munch(en) is The Glockenspiel Cafe, the views from the fifth floor over the city are amazing and the food is fabulous, if a little expensive. Often tipped as the best location in the city.
On a particularly cold day (and there are a few!) you’ll probably find yourself shuffling from pub to pub in an effort to fill up on Paulaner and bretzels (yes, it’s pronounced BRETZEL). It’s not a bad way to spend an afternoon and the best thing is you won’t find yourself alone in your actions. Take a trip off the beaten track and you’ll come across some particularly quaint pubs full of old locals. Bavarians are known for their conservatism so take it easy on the tall stuff to avoid any raised eyebrows (watch out for the alcohol content of the beers, some of them are really up there). However as with any rule there are exceptions...
Oktoberfest
In late September Munich turns from a conservatively cosmopolitan centre into a booze fuelled extravaganza that would make even Spring Break blush. The 16 day celebration is the world’s largest fair, bringing in around six million people per year, and is one of the most famous events in Europe. Sprawled over 103.78 acres and located in Munich’s Theresenweise, Oktoberfest is held in fourteen tents which vary in size and atmosphere. Each tent serves a different beer so when you find the one you like, stay put. Oktoberfest in a nutshell is just beer and meat, but ne’er have the two mixed so well to produce such an unforgettable event, if you keep it together long enough to remember anything, that is. If you don’t however you’ll be forever known in Germany as just another Bierleichen (beer corpse) and probably be carted out of there by one of the hundred volunteer medics.
In order to be a part of this haven however, some preparations are needed. As it is often said, book early to avoid disappointment. Hotels fill up quickly in the run up to Oktoberfest so you would want to be looking for a place well in advance. Prices are higher around the time also so prepare to pay a bit more for your bed. In terms of the festival itself, during the week, you should get there before 2:30 pm, and on the weekend, mornings are the best and least crowded times to visit the beer tents. If the beer tent is full and you have no reservation, you have to wait in line. No seat means no service - and no service means no drinks.
2010 marks the 200th anniversary of Oktoberfest, so if you’re planning to go to the event at all in your lifetime (and you should!), make it this year.
Beer gardens
Many of us will find ourselves debating the location of the best beer garden in the city with our chums this summer, but our petty illusion of choice pales in comparison to the scale of the beer gardens in Munich. Munich is home of the beer garden. They are national treasures, and treated with the utmost of respect. Hirschgarten is the biggest beer garden in Europe, with 8,000 seats and a mini zoo. You have a choice of beers in litre form (called a ‘Mass’), and Hirschgarten is one of the very few beer gardens that still adhere to the tradition of selecting your own beer mug from a rack, rinsing it out and taking it for a fill up. To get there take the S Bahn to Laim and walk.
At any beer garden if there’s a table cloth on the table it means it’s a service table, and it’s tradition to bring your own food although there is food available. There’s always a great mix of people, you and old, locals and tourists, which makes for a good time. They’re a must if you find yourself in the Bavarian region on a sunny day.
Shopping
The shopping district, located around Marienplatz, comprises charming little stores with intricate facades and housing an abundance of trinkets that break up what easily could have been any other homogenous European capital high street.
Fortune favouring the fatigued wanderer, you may stumble upon the ever so grand Alois Dallmayr, when ‘children in a proverbial candy store’ wouldn’t begin to scratch the surface of the wonderment of wines, meats, cheeses, confectionary and Hawaiian papayas on offer. Be sure to check out the rows of historic hand painted porcelain vessels from which they serve their own-brand coffee. It prides itself on authenticity since its establishment over 300 years ago. Thai princesses are said to frequent, but you may be too preoccupied with the indoor fountain stocked with live crayfish to notice.
Getting there and getting around
Ryanair may be the cheapest option flight-wise, but you’ll find yourself with a lengthy bus commute into the main city, and at €20 each way, it’s not what you need on a budget three-day city break. Travel instead with Aer Lingus, which flies straight into Munich International Airport and take the cheaper and quicker option of the U Bahn into the city. Get the three day ticket for €12.50 in the airport and that’s your transport pretty much sorted for the weekend. As far as transport into and around the city goes, you’re never more than two blocks away from an underground station, the Munich U-Bahn operates between 4:15 and 1:30, trains run every ten minutes and every five minutes during rush hours so you’ll do well to get stuck anywhere.
The U Bahn (underground metro) honour system is widely representative of a mature city, self assured and staunchly proud of its status as the Bavarian capital. Returning your glass at a concert for instance entitles you to a euro off your next drink. Novel touches such as these engage inhabitants in a social contract, resulting in a tourist-friendly city of immaculate cleanliness, and one in which you can’t help but feel safe and secure. Munich’s city motto is Munich Loves You. The feeling’s mutual.
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