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The German Persuasion

B�s editor Rachel Vowels takes a credit-crunch get-a-way to one of Germany�s forgotten cities, Frankfurt.

Even though I may end up paying more than the cost of my ticket on baggage, taxes and airport check-in and end up landing in an airport two hours from the place I thought I was going- I find that I simply cannot resist the offer of a dream trip to a second rate tourist destination for €35. All is fair in the world of travel...right? The reality is that budget airlines have become a permanent fixture in our credit crunch society. The downside is that gone are the days when travelling was an easy and relaxing venture, the upside is it gives couples a chance to break from the hustle and bustle of Ireland, with little expense...but a lot of hassle.

In one of my weekly checks of Ryanairs web site, I booked tickets to Frankfurt, Germany. The €35 round trip fare was just too seducing, I had to buy them. So €100 later (with the fees they forgot to mention) I had booked a weekend get-away to Germany. Not the destination I might have thought of when dreaming of my winter break...but one I thought would be worth the risk.

My travel partner and I flew into Frankfurt-Hahn airport, which is one hour and 45 minutes from Frankfurt city but with regular busses to Frankfurt city. After cars, planes, trains and busses it was a wonderful sight to finally see our hotel. We were welcomed by the warm staff at the Hotel Monopol, a luxury four star hotel, steeped in tradition and German hospitality with all the modern conveniences a spoiled ‘hostel-hater’ is accustomed to, without breaking the bank.

Opened in 1906, Hotel Monopol has continually played a role in Frankfurt’s varied history; it was the first hotel to open its doors after World War II and has hosted many of the EU’s monumental meetings. It is the type of place where nothing goes unnoticed. The lifts are wall papered, the mini bar is complementary, there is a fresh fruit basket in each room and the staff are always available. The tradition of luxury and charm recommends it to the savvy, budget conscious traveller. We woke the first day to a fabulous complimentary breakfast buffet with an endless variety of fresh meat, cheese, cereal, scrambled eggs, bread and classic German sausages. The hotel is in the heart of the city within minutes of all the main tourist spots and across the street from the main train station making connecting travel a cinch.

Frankfurt am Main is the manufacturing, financial, commercial and transportation hub in both Germany and the European Union. The fact that there are more banks and sky scrapers than museums and castles has kept tourists distant. But Frankfurt has fought back against its metropolitan reputation by making the city incredibly international and modern with just the right dose of historic ambiance.

The majority of Frankfurt’s medieval architecture was destroyed in World War II, but the city has re-constructed the original medieval centre, called Old Town. It is not authentic but the architects made sure it was as similar as possible to what stood there before. The medieval facades face a huge square, similar to an Italian piazza, with pubs, restaurants and specialty shops dotting the perimeter. You can stop for an ice cream or a pint of Apfelwein and take in the talented street performers and awe-struck Asian tourists.

When dreaming of my German holiday I dreamt of tiny medieval villages, apple strudel and the Autobahn...so the best option to meet my tourist whims was a day trip from Frankfurt to the Romantic Road. The Romantische Stra�e (in German) isa famous medieval trade route through the heart of the German countryside. The remote villages have enough visitors to make them delightful for tourists but are still quiet enough to give a glimpse of country living in Germany. The 350 kilometres of Romantic Road is best seen by hiring a car, the German roads are in excellent condition making travelling by car easy. You could spend days stopping and enjoying each little town you come to, but with a time constraint we decided to limit our venture to Weikersheim and Rothenburg on-der-Tauber.

Weikersheims’ town motto is ‘small but fine.’ Little shops, rococo fountains, Baroque facades and medieval corners- as an introduction to the Romantic Road, Weikersheim is ideal. The town is not only idyllic but the perfect place to stop between Rothenburg and Frankfurt for some Shnitzel, which is what we did.

The most stunning spot in Weikersheim is the picturesque renaissance castle. The castle was built in the 16th century by Count Wolfgang II, its stately grounds show the influence of the renaissance on Germany, while the interior is completely Baroque. Commonly referred to as the ‘Versailles’ of the area, a wander around the gardens is a must.

The rolling hills and forests of Maple trees along the road from Weikershiem to Rothenburg on-der-Tauber was some of the most stunning scenery I have ever seen, making us fall in love with Rothenburg on-der-Tauber before we even entered it.

Rothenburg is the most well preserved medieval town in Germany, and even though it’s very touristy, it’s completely worth a visit. The old part of Rothenburg is walled, all the buildings are medieval and most of it is car-free making it easy to imagine life 800 years ago, in the comfort of a warm cafe over a Schneeball (the doughnut of Germany). All my touristy hopes came true as we walked the narrow alleys and made our way to the Market Square where we climbed the Town Hall tower to see views stretching to the surrounding countryside past the Tauber River.

Right off the Market Square is one of Rothenburg’s highlights, theK�the Wohlfahrt Christmas Village; a place so delightfully Christmassy you feel you might as well be in the North Pole... on Christmas Eve. Whether it is the middle of July or December, the thousands of fairy lights, Christmas trees with ornaments and mini medieval village complete with fake snow is sure to warm even the most sceptical hearts.

As I drove my rental car passed idyllic castles and ancient villages, on the autobahn, being passed on  the inside by Porsche’s whizzing by at 150 m.p.h., it occurred to me how wonderful a place like Germany is. It mixes the beauty of vast history with the amazing efficiency of the 21st century. 

It makes me wonder where else I could go for €35 round trip... I hear Wroclaw is nice in spring.

B Recommends

Hotel Monopol

Mannheimer Str. 11-13 

D-60329 Frankfurt a.M.  

Phone +49 69 22737-0

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